Gum Slough
(X-stream spring adventure)*
Cost:
$50 per person (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and guide)
Using your Own Boat
- $35. (many
paddlers with their own boats like to
join us to learn
more about the history, archaeology and natural
history of these
rivers).
Group size: 1 - 24
Trip length: 6 - 7 hours
Skill level: Beginner (physical ability, endurance and determination are needed)
Dates
Join us for a scheduled tour.
(see
calendar
for trips being planned).
If you see a free date on the calendar, suggest
the trip of your choice and we'll post it!
or,
schedule your own private
tour.
Call for details
(386-454-0611)
Location
To see this river's general location, go to the River Locator Map
or
Click on link below for a local map and then use zoom and panning arrows to
explore the area.
Note: the red star is NOT our meeting place, but just a nearby town or landmark.
http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address&searchtype=address&country=US&addtohistory=&address=&city=Inverness&state=FL&zipcode=
Description
Critics agree - this is a great trip! "I'll do it again and again... if it gets me out of work" says river aficionado Sharon H; "I didn't know there was such a well-hidden, hard-to-find piece of wilderness left in north Florida" said Bruce J., whose mug shot, I mean picture, can be seen hanging on the local post office wall.; "Two thumbs up" - said Dr. Walter B. who, after spending much of the day catching (and releasing) snapping turtles for measurements as part of a research project, was thrilled to show us that he still had opposable thumbs, thereby meeting most of the requirements for inclusion in our species; "It was better than CATS... actually I'm more of a bird person" says Marianne T.
But seriously....
Gum Slough is a network of clear, shallow streams which thread their way through a relatively thick, semitropical hardwood swamp. Lots of red maple, hickory and ash make this a nice section in the fall. Above the slough, the canopy opens, giving way to a beautiful, linear marshland. This is the spring 'bay' where we find the Seven Sisters springs.
This run that can only be accessed from it's lower end, where it flows into the Withlacoochee River (south). From the public boat ramp at Turner's Fish Camp, a short, 20 minute paddle on scenic stretch of the Withlacoochee brings us to the unremarkable mouth of Gum Slough. Heading upstream (up-slough?), the many similar looking side-streams that enter and flow out from the main channel, highlight the fact that this is one of those twisted, braided waterways that devours unwary paddlers. Like River Styx, this swamp holds many tales of lost paddlers who've spent an unplanned night in the woods, so you'll want to stay in sight of the group on this leg of the trip. Gum, red maple, hickory, cypress, ash and other wetland species created a closed canopy over the run. This keeps under story vegetation to a minimum, allowing for good visibility through the swamp - especially in winter.
After a couple of hours of winding our way upstream, the canopy slowly becomes more open and the waters edge becomes increasingly decorated with a lush assortment of emergent marsh vegetation. Another half mile and we've entered a wide, linear marsh. During much of the year, this has the feel of a lost paradise - hidden from the outside world and alive with color. Shades of purple are found in the blooms of both the native pickerelweed and it's unwelcome cousin water hyacinth, an an exotic species brought to Florida in the late 1800's. Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) adds its unbelievable version of crimson to the scene, and whites are provided by towering clusters of duck potato blooms and low, shade loving spider lilies (Hymenocalis). In fall, the show continues as climbing aster bushes take center stage with a burst of small, lavender flowers and bur-marigolds poke their sunny, yellow blooms above the green masses. Taking advantage of every sunny perch offered by their sturdier fellow plants, we find the all-entangling climbing hemp vine (Mikania) with it's small white flowers and tiny cotton-ball seed heads. More color is added by the deceptively pretty orange sinews of dodder, the marshes most insidious resident. This parasitic vine threads its delicate, orange coils around the stems and leaves of it's host, slowly leaching out life-giving water and nutrients. Adding to the attractiveness of the scene are a variety of textures - ragged brown cattail heads shedding their fluffy seeds; Spanish moss waving from the high rigging of cypress, tupelo and ash trees; broad, fan-shaped leaves of cabbage palms. And, below your boat, in the clear spring water you'll find meadows of waving eel grass, burgundy clusters of red ludwigia, dark green pony-tails of coon tail (Ceratophyllum) - all adorned with crowds of tiny river snails.
Wildlife loves this area too. As one might expect, egrets and herons are found here in good numbers. We also see wood storks, yellow crowned night herons and lots of white ibis. Otters are frequently seen too. Literature provided by the SWFWMD (Southwest Florida Water Management District) who owns much of the land we pass through (Carlton Tract and Half Moon Wildlife Management Area), list bobcats, coyotes and fox squirrels as some of the other animals that live here. One of the more unique species we see on this trip is snapping turtles. Whether we've just been lucky, or if there really is a greater population up here, I don't know. But we've seen them on about two thirds of our trips up here.
This marsh is also where we find the Seven Sisters springs. And, just as the slough itself gets more impressive as we work upstream, so too do the springs. In fact, the first ones are easily missed, with relatively dark basins and low flow rates. In the last half mile, you start to see limestone outcrops and small boulders scattered on the river bottom. (on this light background, you can really get a sense of the density of tiny river snails that live here). Then, a bend in the river brings you to the beautiful fountainhead. Here, the thrill reaching the end is offset by the presence of a couple of houses. Even so, the beauty of the deep, blue spring is not lost. Drifting over this and a couple of other nearby, equally beautiful boils, its easy to imagine why this was such a popular retreat for early Indians.
If it weren't for the lone, stilted house at the beginning of the marshes and the others at the head spring, the magic spell that is cast by this lush, hidden realm would be complete. Even so, Gum Slough still ranks as one of the finest spots in north Florida in my book.
During times of low water, the first three miles of this trip can feel like a little slice of hell - regardless of how much you enjoy the swamp experience. At those times, we list this as one of our x-stream adventures . You'll be out of your boat frequently as we slowly work our way up-slough, dragging our boats over deadfall and slogging crotch-deep in mud and soft sand where water is too shallow for paddling. But, as with all of our x-stream trips, the work has its rewards.
Difficulty
When water levels are good - this is a long trip, and usually takes a total of 6 - 7 hours. Paddling against the current for three hours can be very exhausting for some paddlers. The return trip isn't much faster - about 2.5 hours - because the channel is so winding that you can't take good advantage of the downstream current.
During low water - this becomes a VERY HARD trip! The first 3 hours up the slough you'll be out of your boat as much as in it. In places you'll drag your boat through the woods, in others, you'll be wading as you pull your boat upstream. Wading is often complicated by very loose, muck in which you'll sink up to your crotch. This makes for a full-body workout, with arms, back and legs all sharing the misery equally. And, even though you'll have time to rest and swim in the springs, when we're done, you'll have to make the slog again on our return downstream. Very tiring.
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Experience the thrill of going where no one in their right mind has gone before. There are still some places, deep in the wild heart of north Florida, which are so difficult to access that few people ever see them. Most of these places have been bypassed by civilization for good reason - they're hard to access and they're usually in wetlands. But, once in a while, the hard-core nature lover who is willing and able to endure the hardships of penetrating the "impenetrable" and passing the "impassable," will find one of these lost worlds. Occasionally, I lead small groups to such places. And, since these are usually wetlands (in Florida, nothing keeps civilization at bay more effectively than wetlands) most of the 'X-Stream trips are by canoe or kayak. These
are places I really wish everyone could see, but
realistically, they can't. The same thing which has kept
these places pristine (i.e. the difficulty in getting to
them) makes these trips unsuitable to many. The only
consolation I can offer to those who are unable to join
us on these excursions. is to take heart in knowing that
such places are still out there. |
Highlights
For me, the
highlight of this trip is the isolation of the marshes and the springs. The
lower springs aren't very big (in fact some are
hard to even locate in the marsh), but
they are their wild setting is wonderful. The head springs are larger and
clear blue, but the houses detract from the experience. When conditions
are bad (i.e. low water and lots of deadfall) some disturbed folks actually
enjoy the total workout that this trip becomes, requiring both
physical ability and determination. You can spend a day in the
gym or you can spend a day trudging your way, crotch deep in through the mud,
and emerging at the end with bugs in your hair and crud in your teeth. Is there
even a choice?? ; -)
Wildlife
The river swamp along the Withlacoochee River, through which Gum Slough flows, is home to many bird species, especially in the winter when migrants swell the numbers dramatically. Herons, egrets and ibis are common. We also see bald eagles, limpkins, yellow-crowned night herons and swallow-tailed kites (in summer). River otters are also common here. There is also an unusually large population of snapping turtles in the bay area surrounding the springs.
Snapping
turtles These large turtles reach nearly 20 inches in length and can weigh over 40 pounds. They are very aquatic and we usually see them floating in the water rather than basking on logs like other turtles. They have long been killed by humans who found them tasty, but they don't go easily. Though they look slow, their "snap" consists of a very quick thrust of their long neck and a powerful bite that is hard to escape. They're known to eat just about anything that comes their way - plant, animal or carrion, including the occasional human finger! Their much larger relative, the alligator snapper, can weigh 200 pounds. Their range extends from the Suwannee river basin westward.
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History
Hernando DeSoto faced some of the greatest hardship of his 1539 expedition in these swamps. Some archaeologists believe their Indian guides deliberately led the Spaniards through the extremely inhospitable Tsala Apopka wetlands, through which you pass as you drive out Turner Camp Road from Inverness to the launch site. In fact, it's believed the path they followed closely paralleled Turner Camp Road. The Spaniards destination was the nearby Timucua village of Ocale, where they hoped large stores of corn would sustain them through the winter. Ocale, however, wasn't nearly as rich a village as other tribes had proclaimed, so DeSoto soon moved on to make winter quarters at a village located near today's downtown Tallahassee. One clue to DeSoto's having passed close to this area, was the discovery of some Spanish artifacts in a nearby Indian mound.
Most of the
Indian place names which dot today's map of Florida, have
Seminole origins. Very few date back to the earlier, Timucua
Indians. The city of Ocala, named for the village of Ocale, is
one of these rarities.
Recent Trip Notes &
Conditions
(If you go, let
us know)
Sept. 27, 2006 - At this time, low water levels make Gum Slough the realm of only the most determined, die-hards who are prepared to be out of their boats for a good bit of slogging. If you request a tour of this one any time soon, I'll be thrilled to take you, but please be ready for a long, hard, muddy (and very rewarding!) day.
December 3, 2006 - Water levels are very low, requiring a few small pull-overs to get to the headspring. In the last week, steady, light rain has washed much of the intensity out of the brilliant fall colors that cloaked our area a week ago. What a difference a week has made. Most trees are now bare and the remaining leaves are mottled yellows and browns. A few red maples, swamp dogwoods, tupelo and cypress offer remnant patches of color. The overall appearance of North Florida's rivers has morphed from autumn last week to winter. But, Florida is ever the Land of Flowers and patches of yellow ( burmarigold, lavender (climbing aster), red (cardinal flower) and white (spider lilies) still dapple the riverside. Today, we were treated to the fleeting company of a couple of otters. We also saw a couple of alligators and a granddaddy water moccasin sporting an exceptionally pale color. Water birds were thick, their population boosted with the arrival of some migrants. One of the highlights of paddling Gum Slough is the ethereal visit from a resident barred owl, whose ghostly presence we enjoy in the same spot every time. Today he sat in a spindly, slightly leaning ash tree, about 20 yards away. By now, after so many visits with our little floating flocks, he must be getting used to being oggled by clusters of glassy, binocular-magnified eyes. He must think the main sounds made by these odd, floating, big-eyed animals are ooohh and aahhhh. Their (our) giggles must remind him of his woodpecker friends.
March 2, 2008 - Water levels throughout the Withlacoochee basin (including Gum Slough) are getting better all the time. Gum Slough is presently at near-ideal conditions.
May 3, 2008 - Water levels are still below average, but plenty still for doing this trip. We're getting into the summer doldrums, in terms of blooms. But, that's not to say there's nothing. Cardinal flowers are adding their welcome, brilliant glow of red to the greens and browns of the forest. Ladies tresses, Epidendrum, and others are also blooming. On this trip, we brought the count of recorded springs up to 8!
Hi Lars
Current Water Levels
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/ahps.cgi?tbw&crmf1
(this gauge is upstream of Gum
Slough on the Withlacoochee)
Interlude
I once
mentioned to my young niece, Allie, that we were going to a “gum” swamp
and her face lit up as
though we were headed for the circus. It took me
a moment to realize she was visualizing some kind of candy
cane forest
where honey dripped from the trees. I’ve never felt so reluctant to
educate a young mind
as I was at that moment. Under my breath I
sheepishly muttered that the “gum” in this case was a kind of tree.
In Florida, we have two kinds of trees commonly called gums, sweet gum (Liquidambar
styraciflua) and the
tupelos (Nyssa sp.). These are unrelated
trees that are called “gums” for entirely different reasons.
Sweet gum got its name in the way we might expect, from its sticky sap.
Dissect the Latin name, and you
reveal a wonderfully poetic tribute to
this sap—Liquidambar meaning “liquid amber” and styraciflua,
“flowing
with storax or aromatic resin.” This sap, called styrax, has
been used as a substitute for storax, a perfumy balm
extracted from a
related Oriental species. In folk medicine styrax has been used for
wounds and skin irritations.
More recently, a commercial industry was
established in Alabama, where the sap was processed for
ointments and
syrups.
But the gums that adorn our local maps with such enticing names as Gum
Root Swamp, Gum Pond and
Gum Slough are the tupelos. In our area there
are three – swamp tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), water tupelo
N.
aquatica) and Ogeechee tupelo (N. ogeche).
Having grown up in a household steeped in Danish tradition, I am
familiar with Nyssa, the small
gnomes of Scandinavian folklore that
inspired Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus to give the genus this name.
Nyssa are mischievous little people who usually make their appearance
around Christmas time. But,
here in Florida you can find them any time
of year. Just stand in a grove of Ogeechee tupelos and look
around at
the stout, squat trunks and gnarled, sprawling limbs and you’ll know
you’re
in the company of gnomes.
Among the most notable animal associates of tupelos are bees. Honey made
by bees that have sipped
on Ogeechee tupelo blooms is considered by many
to be a delicacy. For diabetics, it’s much more. Because
of high
fructose and low dextrose content, it is the only kind of honey they are
able to safely eat.
Bees also use tupelos for housing, often building hives in hollow trunks
of swamp tupelo trees. Another name
for a beehive is a “gum”, and thus
the name"gum" trees. Some bee keepers use a 2 – 3 foot section of
fallen,
hollow gum tree, with boards on top and bottom, to house their
bee gums. Another use for hollowed sections of
gum trunks is for a kind
of rabbit pen called a “rabbit gum”.
I explained
all of this to Allie, but I could tell my words were little more than an
annoyance – an unwelcome
breeze emanating from my mouth that tickled her
ears, without actually entering them. With the selective
mode of hearing
that is the gift of childhood, only a few choice words actually
penetrated her mind. Looking
up at me with doe-eyed innocence she
whispered hopefully, “So it’s a forest full of honey?!”