guided tours #4

The rare opportunity to paddle on Paynes Prairie only happens with exceptional flooding in Alachua County.
On average, these conditions happen once every couple of decades. Besides being a fun opportunity to paddle on the
Prairie, it is good for the marsh habitat to flood occasionally and kill back upland species. So, let's hope for rain!
At other times (between high water events) we lead hiking tours on this historic and ecologically important
wetland prairie (see Paynes Prairie).

Cost: $35.00 per person (plus $5/person park fee) (includes boat, paddle, vest, and your guide)
Using your Own Boat - $25. (plus $5/person park fee) (many paddlers with their own boats
like to join us to learn more about the history, archaeology and natural history of these rivers).

Group size: 1 - 20 people

Trip time: 2.5 hours

Skill level: beginner (but the pro's enjoy this one too)

Join us for a scheduled tour. (see calendar for trips being planned).
If you see a free date on the calendar, suggest
the trip of your choice and we'll post it!
or,
schedule your own private tour. Call for details (386-454-0611)

Paynes Prairie is a large, 20 square mile basin formed by dissolution and collapse of underground limestone. This same process forms the many sinkholes in this part of Florida. It's also the process that forms most of our local lakes. In fact, Paynes Prairie would be a lake if not for one significant feature - it has a leak. At the northern edge of the Prairie basin, a hole in the limestone bottom, known as Alachua Sink, drains water into the underground aquifer system. It's a relatively small hole however, perhaps the size of a small car, so it takes a long time to drain the basin when it floods. This constant dampness - rarely dry and only occasionally flooded - has created a fantastic, and relatively unique marshland.

Located a few miles south of Gainesville, this 20 square mile wetland prairie is not only a wildlife hotspot, but one of the most historically significant natural features in north Florida. For the first nomadic hunter-gatherers to enter Florida about 12,000 years ago, it was all about location, location, location - location of big game (including mammoths, mastodons and more), location of water and location of tool making materials, most notably a type of stone known as chert. Chert, the best material in Florida for making spear points and blades, is abundant on an around the Prairie.

In later periods, the Prairie continued to be an important location for native settlements. Archaeologists have found abundant artifacts dating from every cultural; period up to the present.

Paynes Prairie has a long history of flooding during high water events (if this comes as news to you, there's a book I'd like to recommend ;-). Since the 1800's, the ephemeral lake that is created by these floods has been referred to as Alachua Lake. In dry periods, the diminished pool of water that remains in the low center of the basin retains the name - like a devoted keeper of the flame, waiting for the rains to return. This past hurricane season brought the awaited rains and Alachua Lake has been reborn.

Over the centuries, boaters of all sorts have taken advantage of the occasional lake. The nearby dugout canoe graveyard that is Newnan's Lake gives ample proof that north Florida's aborigines were paddlers. It seems likely they took to the waters of Paynes Prairie whenever water levels allowed.

The first documented boats on the Prairie were small steamboats used to ship goods and supplies (and the occasional brave passenger) during a 20 year flood that lasted from 1871 to 1892. The convenience of water transportation as opposed to shipping produce (and people) by way of the treacherous, sugar-sand wagon roads around the prairie perimeter, was a boon to area planters. Citrus cultivation was enjoying it's heyday in north Florida and the heart of the industry was centered at Paynes Prairie. Recreational sailing was also popular on Alachua Lake. Contemporary accounts mention days when many sails could be seen skimming through the wind ruffled whitecaps (the lake was deeper than it is now).

In the 1920's, as fill for highway 441 was being laid across the Prairie, flooding rains filled the basin. As they had done so often before, the locals brought their boats to the reborn shoreline and took to the water. By now, it was gas-powered motor boats that plied the shallow lake. The half completed road bed for the highway became a favorite launch site.

The flooding of the 1920's proved to be one of the more typical, temporary mood swings of the Prairie and within a couple of years the waters had receded. By the '30's, the highway was complete and a new system of dykes and canals was completed by the cattle ranching Camp family who owned the Prairie. The new water control structures made the possibility of ever seeing another prolonged "lake" period, unlikely. Wrong again. In the 1960's, the Prairie seemed to be on the verge of becoming a permanent lake - this time, with the help of humans.

When the Prairie was named a "wildlife sanctuary" in 1960's, there was much debate about what to do with it. One of the most strongly lobbied ideas was to permanently flood the basin. The plan called for raising the Hwy 441 roadbed and constructing a tramway to carry tourists across the water. Boats could once again enjoy the open waters of Alachua Lake. The list of organizations was considerable and even included the local Audubon Society! Luckily, the State bought the Prairie in 1970 and all efforts turned to restoring the Prairie's to it's natural state. Today, the park service is committed to restoring the natural habitats and wildlife communities that existed on the Prairie before European encroachment.

Highlights

At all water levels (including no water at all) Paynes Prairie is a Mecca for wildlife. There's a healthy alligator population, but with all of the water for them to frolic in, we probably won't see any more than an average river trip or lake paddle. Birding is always good, with the full roster of common wading birds, assorted warblers, grackles, redwings, osprey, bald eagles, northern harriers and red-tailed hawks all being commonly seen. Sand hill cranes spend a lot of time here. The Prairie also has a reputation for surprising us with some bird species that are uncommon in the Gainesville area, including white pelicans, roseate spoonbills and the large fulvous whistling ducks. On all recent trips, we've spotted black-necked stilts, osprey, bald eagles, house swallows, barn swallows, American bitterns, and many wading birds of all persuasions.

Sandhill Cranes
Grus canadensis

With their tall stature, brilliant red cap and distinctive, rattle-like trumpeting, sandhill cranes are among the most loved and recognizable bird species in north Florida. Even non-outdoorsy Floridians will stop in their tracks to scan the heavens when they hear the distant trumpeting that announces the return of wintering cranes. By night, they gather by the hundreds in remote marshes and then disperse by day to feed in nearby fields and high marshes where they feed on just about anything within reach - insects, worms, grubs, seeds, fruit and plants. While there is a small year-round population in Florida, winter is the real season for sandhill cranes. Rarely seen, but well-known is their spectacular courtship dance where the enamored couple face off, alternately bowing to one another and then jumping in the air, flapping their wings and cackling like overgrown turkeys.

Winter 2004 and Spring '05 - The deluge of rains brought by a parade of fall hurricanes, revived the ephemeral lake. Thanks to the park services refreshing commitment to sharing the Paynes Prairie experience with all who love her, we have been allowed to guide tours on the lake since November. Be sure to watch the calendar for trip dates.

April 24, 2005 - Another beautiful day on the lake. Osprey, sand hill cranes, egrets, herons, moorhens, black-necked stilts and only a few alligators. The mats of pennywort, water hyacinth, smartweed, water lettuce, frogs bit, pickerel weed and more are spreading.

June 17, 2005 - Our recent trips have been highlighted by sightings of rare (in Florida) black-bellied whistling ducks. These spectacular birds have striking orange bills, and legs to match. Their grayish head sports an attractive dark stripe starting on the crown and going down to their shoulders, giving them one of the finest "Mohawk" hair-do's (feather-do??) in the bird kingdom. They've been slowly building a population in Florida and there's apparently a hefty population of several hundred of them in the Sarasota. Increasing reports from other parts of the State seem to indicate that this beautiful, large duck should soon find it's way into Florida bird guides - to date it is not listed in any except in the occasional appendix of rarities. American lotus plants have burst open with their incredible huge, yellow blooms in scattered locations. The much more abundant yellow water lilies that formed a sea of yellow on last months trips, are now passing out of the blooming stage and are busy developing seeds for future generations.

July 8, '05 - Recent rains have brought the levels to their highest point this year. With hurricane season bearing down on us, it looks like this rare opportunity might be extended for a while.

Sept. 11, 2005 - Recent trips have been a botanists dream. Dense stands of American lotus blooms on their 3 ft. stalks make for a surreal paddling experience. On the down side, this lush growth of marsh greenery is thriving and expanding. The route we follow out into the open water is getting increasingly clogged. It looks like we might be down to our last couple of trips - at least until winter freezes kill back some of these plants.

Sept. 24, 2005 - We knew this day was coming : - ( Today's trip was beautiful as always, but..... we couldn't get out to the main body of open water. After our initial paddle around the Alachua Sink area and over toward Ice Rink Sink, we steered our course down the canal toward Prairie central. About a third of the way out, we met a thicket of water hyacinth, pickerel weed and all of the other marsh vegetables that, under any other circumstances would have been most welcome. But their stubbornness was greater than ours and we were denied further passage. We still have a couple of trips on the calendar, but these will be listed as "X-Stream" trips, suitable only for the most determined (and physically fit) paddlers. We may get permission to manually clear a little channel through the vegetation, so if you're hoping to do this one, don't give up yet. Keep an eye on the calendar for possible updates. Either way, the end of this very rare opportunity is in sight.

Nov. 6, 2005 - We hand-cleared a small channel through the vegetables (I always grin when I read Bartram referring to wild plants as vegetables - thought I'd pass that grin along to you) so we are able to continue or paddles on the Prairie. Today's trip was spectacular. The fall setting was dominated by burmarigolds, but many others, including smartweed, bladderwort, pickerelweed and a few yellow water lilies and fragrant water lilies were showing off their flowers as well. We spotted a half dozen glossy ibis, great blue herons, grackles, black-bellied whistling ducks, double-crested cormorants and more. Coots stole the day however, with several gatherings of different sizes, ranging upwards of a hundred birds, kept our attention - especially when making their A couple neaContrary to the breath-taking numbers of gators we see in this area during drier times, we've seen very few on recent trips. The 2 footer we saw today was the first we've spotted in the last 4 trips (mid - Oct. thru early Nov.) With the new little channel, it looks like we may still have at least a few more months of these Prairie trips. WOOHOO!!

Jan 29, 2006 - Water levels holding steady and recent rains have added a few welcome inches. At this point the celebration of blooms has has passes, and we find only a few scattered burmarigols, spatterdock and climbing asters. The prairie plants are now focusing their energies on producing and dispersing their progeny - coppery brown broom sedge seed heads waving in the breeze, small brownish gray tufts of aster crowd the bushes, a few relict "shower heads" of American lotus stand lonely in once crowded marsh, swollen brandy bottle pods of spatterdock, masses of amaranth seeds perch in large clusters atop buttressed red stalks. Browns of a thousand shades dominate the sweeping vistas in all directions. Glossy and white ibis still wade in the shallowest places, sharing these prime feeding grounds with a mutually beneficial feeding regimen - glossys probing the ground primarily for grains while the white ibis focus on insects and other small animals.

Feb 26, 2006 - Recent rains have added more water than is being lost to the combined workings of Alachua Sink, evaporation and transpiration. The levels are presently about where they were a couple of months after the hurricanes!! At this rate, we could be paddling the prairie for many months to come.

Spring is just starting to show on the Prairie. Willow trees are taking on a soft yellow-green tinge from developing catkins and tiny, fresh leaves just poking out from swelling buds. While we don't see much spatter dock on this trip, those plants we do see are sending up new, yellow blooms. Oddly, the most noticeable blooms are bur marigolds, holdovers from the brilliant autumn show. Smartweed, pickerelweed, water hyacinth (whose beauty can't be denied, even though we wish them gone!) have yet to get into the spirit of the season. Soon!! Tree swallows are still actively swooping and darting after flying insects while red-winged blackbirds work the marsh vegetation. I caught one beautiful banded water snake who was kind enough to let us check him out for a few minutes before sending him on his way. Well-healed but significant scars on his neck and a lopped-off tail told of a violent encounter in earlier years. Gators? What gators??

Oct. 4, 2006 - Water levels continue to recede. So, while paddling on the great Alachua Lake is relegated once again to the realm of happy memories and wishful thinking, the prospect of hiking, once again, on the Great Alachua Savanna looms ever closer as our favorite trails - La Chua, Bolens Bluff and Cone's Dike - continue to dry.

Cost: $39 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and your guide)
Using your Own Boat - $29. (many paddlers with their own boats like to
join us to learn more about the history, archaeology and natural
history of these rivers).

Group size: 1 - 24 people

Trip length: 4 - 5 hours

Skill level: Beginner

Difficulty: Pull-overs and short wades are a possibility. There are a few tricky forks on all of the side
cannels and on the Ocklawaha itself so you won't want to get too far away from the guide.

This remote little stream offers a great opportunity to explore the wild beauty of a swamp without getting wet (usually).

On this trip, we explore the maze of creeks and sloughs that braid through the backwaters of the lower Ocklawaha basin. The first leg of our journey follows Bear Creek and Indian Village Slough into the heart of the swamp. Much of this section lies within Little Lake George Wilderness Area. Cypress, tupelo, maple, cabbage palm, holly and more, form a closed canopy overhead. In their shadows, we take in the rich sights, sounds and smells of the regal bottomland forest.

After a couple of hours paddling, we emerge from this shaded, intimate serenity onto the wide open expanse of St. Johns River. Here we rest, drifting in a floating garden of spatter dock, water lettuce, water hyacinth, duckweed and water ferns, enjoying lunch and watching the hustle of myriad river-craft, with shapes and sizes as diverse as their tasks. Many birds live along the big river and there's always the possibility of spotting a manatee. After our brief, rejuvenating siesta, fed and fluffy, we resume our trip, entering the mouth of the Ocklawaha.

This part of the Ocklawaha starts out fairly wide but narrows as we make our way up against a modest current. Soon, we succumb to the lure of the swamp and we turn our boats away from the wide channel and reenter the river swamp. Following a series of small watery trails, with names like Turpentine Creek and Tusintak Creek, we pass through a section of Caravelle Ranch Wildlife Management Area before returning to our original launch site. This is a round trip.

Florida's swamps, in general, are a virtual smorgasbord (are my Danish roots showing?) of wildlife. The Ocklawaha river swamp is a prime example. The year-round abundance of woodland birds swells considerably in winter with arriving migrants. Manatees are a possibility in the vicinity of the St. Johns river. Other wild residents include bears, eagles, osprey, deer, otters, egrets, herons, ibis and other water birds. This section also has a healthy 'gator population, as well as snakes and an occasional wild hog. We often see wading birds, ranging from lone limpkins to 100+ flocks of white ibis feeding among the cypress knees and buttressed trunks of ash, tupelo and oak.

- Forager's Notebook -

Spatterdock (Nuphar luteum) - Our northern clients often know this plant as pond lily or cow lily. The small hard seeds found in the little 'brandy-bottle' seed pods (so nick-named because of their waisted, flask shape and also because the flowers sometimes smell like stale brandy dregs), are edible. Knowledgeable fishermen gather small "bonnet worms" that live in the stalks to use as bait. The ripe, dried seeds can be popped like popcorn, but don't get your hopes up. While they make a unique snack when parched over a a fire, they don't pop like popcorn. A few seeds will swell and pop slightly, but they don't expand much bigger than the un-popped seeds. Even so, they are fairly tasty - especially when seasoned, salted and buttered. We see small patches of spatterdock on the open sections of this Bear Creek exploration. But, its' at lunch where we find ourselves drifting dreamily in a large, several acre patch of their deep green leaves and attractive, yellow blooms.

Remains of an ancient Indian village site and a nearby shell mound, located on the high ground south of Indian Village Slough, attest to prehistoric occupation of this area. In the historic period this section of the Ocklawaha River, with it's vast swamp lands, has gone relatively untouched. For more on the Ocklawaha river's past, see Ocklawaha trip history).

Trip Notes
(Interesting sightings or notes? Let us know and we'll post here)

Oct 14, 2001 - Fall is showing its colors. Red maples, black gum, sweet gum and dogwoods are providing reds of all shade, while wild grapes, hickory and others add some yellow. These, when mixed with the beautiful copper crowns of the bald cypress and the many hues of green offered by the die-hard leaves of the evergreens species and set against the electric blue winter sky, made this a very scenic trip. Several large flocks of white ibis were seen in the swamps as we quietly maneuvered down the thin, "north leg" stream.

March 2, 2006 - Water levels are a little high, giving the river forest a good soaking. Usually, this would men fewer wading birds, but on today's trip we were treated to quite a few feathered companions. A couple of large flocks of white ibis were making their way up and down the channel, while pine warblers and scores of other LBJ's (little brown jobs) worked the under story. We spotted a half dozen gators, and twice as many turtles (mostly red-bellies) soaking up the sun and gearing up for the carnival of spring. At this time of year, we get a great demonstration of the subtle differences a few fractions of a degree in latitude makes on the environment. Here, in the Ocklawaha valley, red maples are a bit greener and more of their ripe, red samara (seeds) have dropped than those in the next valley to the north, along the Santa Fe. Elm leaves are bigger, newly unfurled ash leaves are a bit longer, the dust of oak pollen is more apparent. The forests of the Suwannee are just a shade less green. Fewer flowers have dared open and unopened buds are not as plump. But in either place, there's no mistaking it - spring is here!!

Oct. 3, 2006 - It's hard to believe the entire summer season passed without a chance to explore these quiet backwaters. Our last trip was a celebration of re-emerging spring foliage, while this trip was heavy in the subtle signs of autumn. All of the hard work of summer - producing flowers, attracting pollinators, developing seeds - is now paying off. Seeds, nuts and fruits decorate branches of many swamp plants. Dogwoods formerly greenish-white fruits are now purple. Female hollies are brilliantly decorated with orange berries, while the males rest - their work long done. Tupelo, haw, and bay trees all boast the fruits of a successful season. Less showy, but no less important, are the dried seeds of ash trees that hang heavily in dense, brown clusters. But, of course, for us passing human guests, it's the show of colorful foliage that highlights autumn paddling in these forests. While we're far from "peak" here in central Florida, there are signs of the coming season. Weakened red maples, tupelos, dogwoods and even poison ivy are showing their first inclination to give up the summer, while cardinal flowers and swamp lilies are in full bloom. No sign yet of the true harbinger of fall - climbing asters - but it won't be long. Several gators and assorted birds made good company on this days exploration.

Cost: $39.00 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, guide, shuttling and, of course, your guide)
Using your Own Boat - $29. (many paddlers with their own boats like to join us to learn
more about the history, archaeology and natural history of these rivers).

Group size: 1 - 24 people

Black Creek is one of those river's you don't hear much about - not in paddlin' circles anyway. This, in itself, wouldn't be so unusual if it weren't for the fact that Black Creek has been one of the most well known, thoroughly explored, and important waterways in Florida history.

Most of our trips are on the north prong, originating in the Jennings State Forest.

This river retains an age-old reputation as a haven for monstrous alligators. And, while the you might spot some large individuals, most of the gator's here are average sized, ranging from 6 - 10 feet. The shore line of Black Creek displays excellent showcase of native varieties of some common nursery plants. Wild roses, native wisteria, wild azalea and swamp dogwoods are some examples. For some reason, on this trip, we often stumble upon reptiles that are rarely seen. Ring-necked snakes and rough green snakes are often in the branches overhanging the water. On one trip in the fall of 1998, our clients were treated to a rare, up close look at a coachwhip snake, which, aside from being mildly entertaining, had the added benefit of demonstrating how many blackberry briars our river guide will endure for the sake of introducing our clients to Florida's amazing wildlife - in this case, our fastest snake..

Ogechee tupelo
Nyssa ogeche

Nyssa, the genus name of Tupelo trees, is a Swedish word for a Troll. When standing alone on the riverbank, the short, stout trunks and long, gnarled branches of these trees give them a rather troll-like appearance. In Florida, there are many place names which are of Creek Indian origin, but not many plants. Tupelo is one of them. It is derived from their word topilwa, or "swamp tree." Ogechee is the name of a river in Georgia. In the fall, the small, 1 - 1.5 inch fruits, the "limes" for which the plant was nicknamed "Ogechee lime", turn a beautiful scarlet color that add a beautiful element to the autumn forests.

For local Indians, who called it White River, this waterway was an important route for travel and commerce. During the Second Seminole War, the U.S. Army established a supply depot and military headquarters at the "fork" where north prong and south prong meet. Named Ft. Heilman, this fort was to become one of the most important in the seven year war. The town which grew from Ft. Heilman was named Middleburg. With an exceptionally deep channel, Middleburg became developed into a port as the steamboat era came to life on the St. Johns River, into which Black Creek flows.

Trip Notes & Recent
(Interesting sightings or notes? Let us know and we'll post here)

January, 2003 - With above average rains this winter, there have been some periods where this river has channeled a torrential gush of water out of the Jennings forest and through Middleburg. Between these brief periods of extremely high, fast water, such as is the case now, the levels are running a little above average. Catch this one a day after a good soaker and you'll enjoy an awesome ride!

August 4, 2006 - The new, improved canoe launch area and parking made for a slightly longer haul to the water with boats, but no complaints. It looks great and bank erosion will be much less of a problem now. Today's paddle took a little longer than average due to low water levels, but was still an easy paddle. Several gators kept us alert. The two dominant tree species here, hazel alder and Ogechee limes, were loaded with ripening fruit and seeds.

Cost: $42.00 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, guide, shuttling and, of course,
your guide) Using your Own Boat - $25. (many paddlers with their own boats like to
join us to learn more about the history, archaeology and natural history of
these rivers). ** There's also a $5 park entry fee.

This is one of the most interesting and diverse areas on the Adventure Outpost "Launch Menu". With a fantastic variety of historical, archaeological and natural features, tours in the CNS are a non-stop learning experience. There are many possibilities for customizing your trip by adding some biking, hiking and driving elements to paddling adventure.

On this trip, we paddle the quiet lagoons of one of Florida's finest parks. Extensive dunes and a maze of salt marshes, island hammocks and mangrove lagoons are home to nearly 1,045 plant species and 310 birds, not to mention a fine array of mammals, insects and (my favorites) reptiles.

Canaveral National Seashore has more than its share of outstanding and unique natural features. Perhaps the most noteworthy is it's extensive pristine beach, which stretches for nearly 24 miles. The only high-rise building you'll see here is NASA's massive Vehicle Assembly Building (with more open space inside than any other building in the world), but even this architectural behemoth is a mere speck on the horizon.

For wildlife viewing and nature study, you'll do best on the backside of the dunes and into the park's extensive marshes and mangrove lagoons.

- Forager's Notebook -

Wild Spices - If you're going to treat yourself to some wild cuisine, there's no reason it should be bland. There's no rule that says wild food has to be mild food. Salt is probably the most popular (and necessary) flavoring in the world. Thankfully, it can be found in abundance in Canaveral Nat'l Seashore, as well as other coastal wetlands. The best source is saltwort and glasswort. These two succulent plants grow abundantly at the waters edge, often forming dense, knee-high thickets. Toss a few leaves and stems into your wild salad or sandwich, or cook it up with wild vegetables. Another local source for salt is cord grass. To survive in this harsh, salty environment, cord grass exudes excess salts from microscopic pores on the leaf surface. The tiny, glistening crystals can be seen on the leaf surface. Run a leaf blade between your fingers and you'll be amazed at how much salt comes off - finger lickin' good! Other wild flavorings that can be obtained from local plants range from hot and peppery to sweet. Others don't fall into any specific category and are best described in terms ranging from "tasty" or "not exactly tasty" to "edible in a pinch" and "better than shoe leather". Of course some are (yes, I'll admit it) "disgusting". Be sure to use reliable guides to identify plants and determine edibility.

Within the bounds of this amazing preserve, there are over 100 registered archaeological sites.

Many shell middens and burial sites remain as silent reminders of thousands of years of native occupation of these low, coastal lagoons. One local site (not in the park) discovered in 1982, known as Windover, has proven to be one of the most significant archaeological sites in the country. Among the remains of over 40 sets of human remains, some dating back 8,000 years, researchers discovered some intact brain tissue.

Another, more obvious site, that is in the park is Turtle Mound. This 35 foot high Indian mound (50 feet when first excavated in the 1800's) is composed of millions of sea shells, discarded as dinner scraps by Timucuan Indians during the period from about 800 to 1400 A.D. This massive shell mound stood as the highest landmark on Florida's east coast for hundreds of years before Europeans arrived. In the early 1600's, the Indian village of Surruque was located here.

During the Civil War, this quiet lagoon took on great importance as a port for importing and exporting goods for the Confederacy. All regular ports were blockaded, so blockade runners made this a regular port of call. Arriving shipments were brought through a small canal to Indian River and from there, a short overland wagon ride brought them to the headwaters of the St. Johns River.

On this exploration, we pass the ghost town of Eldora, a 19th century community which once boasted a population approaching 200. Like so many other early settlements, nature dealt a crippling blow to the citrus trees which were a mainstay of Eldora's economy. In addition, when the Intra-coastal waterway was dug, it routed boat traffic to Mosquito lagoons western shore, opposite Eldora's scenic little bluff on the eastern barrier island. The communities decline was slow, but finally in the 1960's and '70's the last residents moved away.

In the open waters, crossing the lagoon toward the mangrove islands, we often see bottle-nosed dolphins rolling in the surf. Water birds including terns, gulls, egrets, herons, osprey, cormorants and eagles are all common. Birding is good during the migrations, especially in the fall.

As we enter the lagoons and winding passages between islands, we find ourselves in the world of mangroves. Four varieties of mangroves flank our watery trail as we skim between the islands. Raccoons, can often be seen grubbing around for crustaceans and bivalves among the large "meadows" and saltpans of saltwort and glasswort. On larger islands, oaks, bay, palm and nakedwood trees dominate the over story, while a fantastic variety of shrubs and herbaceous plants cover the forest floor. A number of species reach the northern extent of their range in this park.

On warm days, this minimally shaded area can be uncomfortably warm. There's also the possibility of strong breezes, so watch the weather before you go.

The open nature of this paddle always exposes us to the whims of weather. With only a narrow spit of land separating this lagoon from the Atlantic Ocean, winds can occasionally blow us around a bit. In the summer, watch out for rain squalls and quick developing and fast moving thunder storms. Keep an eye on the sky. This can also be a warm paddle, with plenty of sunshine and not much shade, so dress appropriately and bring plenty of fluids. Bug stuff is also a good idea in the warmer months.

May 14, 2005 - Washed out beaches in New Smyrna brought many visitors to the beaches of Canaveral Natl. Seashore. But, the lagoon side of the barrier island, where we focus our explorations, was as quiet as ever. Didn't see the usual dolphins this time, but plenty of birds. Found a fantastic cluster of prickly pear cactus, heavily laden with those world famous crimson crawlies, the cochineal beetles (if you like quirky history, you should check out the story of these important beetles!).

Cost: $39.00 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and, of course, your guide)
Using your Own Boat - $25. (many paddlers with their own boats like to join us to learn
more about the history, archaeology and natural history of these rivers).

Difficulty: This trip can be strenuous, especially if there are winds or waves.

The Cedar Keys are situated in the remote, Big Bend region of Florida's west coast - where the transition from land to sea is as subtle as a Gulf coast sunset. There's no well-defined shore line. For west bound travelers, the declining elevation is so slight - one foot per mile - there is little indication that you're approaching the Gulf of Mexico. Slowly, sandy pinelands give way to swamps and marshes. Except for occasional scrub covered ridges (formed on ancient sand dunes), it is a sodden land where wildlife abounds and human habitation has been kept at bay.

As land meets sea, the low ground becomes inundated by water, and higher ridges form myriad small islands. It's an area of constant change, tides rise and fall, the shore line surges in and out. A boat left at the waters edge may, within a few hours, be sitting a hundred yards inland. Unfortunately, the opposite is also true. Island lore is rich in tales of people being stranded when rising tides had carried away their vessle.

In the "tidal zone," between high and low tides, a fascinating ecosystem thrives, fueled by a bounty of marine life that washes ashore with the rising tide and is left stranded in tidal pools as the water line recedes. Here, in the salt marshes and mangrove swamps, you'll find animals such as fiddler crabs. When you see these comical little guys sitting near their burrow, waving one huge claw as an enticement to passing females, you'll understand how they got their name.

On the larger islands, pines, cabbage palms, mangroves, red bay, laurel oak and live oak dominate the over story, while at their feet, dense thickets of hardy plants and shrubs, such as Spanish bayonet, salt bush, wild olive, yaupon, red cedar, palmetto and prickly pear cactus can make hiking difficult. On smaller islands, vegetation is more sparse, ranging from those with just a few ground-clinging grasses, to slightly larger ones where sea purslane and prickly pear cactus might add more variety.

Most of our trips start at Shell Mound, a 2000 year old Indian midden. From there, we make our way out to a few of the many barrier islands that line the coast around Cedar Key. We get out and stretch at a couple of the islands, taking lunch and checking out some of the wildlife before making our way back to the boat ramp.

Nearly 2,000 years ago, Florida's changing landscape coupled with the dynamics of interacting native populations prompted some aboriginal tribes to move to the Cedar Key area. With abundant sea food, settlements thrived until the early 1400's (before the arrival of Europeans). Evidence of this long occupation is most noticeable in the numerous shell mounds that dot the coast, not only here but all along Florida's Gulf coast. One of the largest of these middens (large mounds of discarded shells, pottery and broken tools) is located a little north of the town of Cedar Key. You can see this mound at Shell Mound County Park, where many of our paddle explorations begin.

During the Second Seminole War (1835 - '42) Seahorse Key, near Cedar Key, was the location of a military hospital and a detention center where Indians were kept before being shipped west to the Indian Territories. After Florida became a State, the U.S government built a lighthouse on the island. Later, during the Civil War, it was used by the Union Army as a military prison.

On nearby Atsena Otie island, the army built a supply depot during the Second Seminole War. Over a century later, in the wake of the Civil War, a large mill was built on the island, where much of the area's vast stands of cedar trees were buzzed into pencils and shipped to distant ports. The town's population grew to nearly 300 before the mill was shut down and a hurricane destroyed most of the homes. On days when our journey brings us to this little island, we enjoy a nice hike to the old grave yard where we find the graves of some notable characters including a pirates family, politicians and mill workers. On other days we head for a different island where we explore an old home site, abandoned early in the 1900's, where we learn about many of the local wild plants and how they were used by the Indians and settlers.

Wildlife thrives on these beautiful islands. While the lack of fresh water limits mammals to a few representatives such as some rodents, otters and raccoons, the reptiles abound. As a young snake hunter (catching, not killing), I spent many days wandering these islands studying the wildlife and, of course, catching snakes. Ironically, the animals that were an irresistible lure to Lars the snake-catcher have become, to Lars the river guide, the greatest concern - poisonous snakes. Unlike so many bits of local 'wisdom' - often the fruit of overactive imaginations - the legendary abundance of water moccasins on these coastal islands is true. I've never heard a good explanation of this phenomenon. But, as is the case with most wild animals, these fascinating predators are as wary of us as we are of them. By staying alert, we've always been able to file our reptile encounters under the heading of "exciting learning experience" rather than "clients buried at sea."

The real stars of the island community are the birds. Numerous species, some resident and others migratory, can be found here. The more commonly seen birds are terns, gulls, sandpipers, ibis, cormorants, oyster catchers, pelicans and osprey. Most of these islands are part of the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, where thousands of water birds nest each year. Nesting or not, there are always plenty around. We often spot dolphins as we skim between islands. Less frequently, we'll happen upon one of the wonderful gentle giants of these waters, a manatee.

Beachcombing for shells and other interesting gifts of the sea is a nice change of pace from our inland excursions. On the islands, we often find broken bits of pottery (shards) that remind us of a time when sea levels were much lower and the shore line was many miles out. Also of interest are scores of horseshoe crab shells on the beaches.

Horseshoe Crab
Limulus polyphemus

These are among the oldest animals on earth, claiming an ancestry dating back nearly 550 million years. Millions of years before dinosaurs, these relatives of spiders (not crabs) looked exactly the same as they do today. Their secret to success? Perhaps it's their two sets of eyes, or the 'jaws' in their legs that require them to walk when they eat (the original multi-taskers!). Maybe it's their blue blood (a result of having a copper basis in respiratory pigments rather than iron) which has some poison neutralizing properties, and sells for $15,000 per quart. Birds love eating them, but not humans - though they aren't poisonous. Indians used to eat the muscle in the abdomen which moves the tail (telson). The telson looks like a dangerous spike, but is actually used to help the animal turn over when it gets flipped onto it's back (turtles could use such a tool!). The telson's lethal appearance wasn't lost on the Indians who used them for spear points. They also used the shells as scoops to bail water from their canoes. Their large eyes and optic nerves have made horseshoe crabs popular for eye research. When mating, the female carries a male (sometimes several) on her back onto the beach. She digs a hole, deposits thousands of tiny eggs, then drags the male over the eggs for him to fertilize them. That's not the only time they're used as fertilizers. Some farmers continue to old practice of tilling horseshoe crabs into the soil before planting.

I guess I'll never get tired of catching snakes. I caught (and released) this
4.5 ft. eastern diamondback rattlesnake in the marshes of Cedar Key.
(Thanks to Liz McGonagle for the picture)

Trip Notes and Recent Conditions

(Interesting sightings or notes? Let us know and we'll post here)

The open nature of this paddle always exposes us to the whims of weather. Even the slightest wind can kick up some fair sized swells that can make for a challenging paddle. In the summer, watch out for rain squalls and quick developing and fast moving thunder storms. Keep an eye on the sky.

August 29, 2006 - Dolphins, horseshoe crabs and a gazillion (really, we counted! :-) shore birds, and others, kept us craning our necks all day.

The Chas (a common nickname) is the quiet, unpretentious little sister of the popular GOMER (Gulf of Mexico Region) spring rivers. With Crystal and Homosassa rivers vying for attention to the north and the siren's song of rhine-stoned mermaids luring tourists to Weeki Wachee to the south, the Chas has gone relatively unnoticed. That, in itself, would usually be enough to make this a must-do trip for the "wanna go" crew - but there's more! This river's isolation is no mere fluke. It runs through the heart of a beautiful, 40 square mile wetlands - the Chassahowitzka Swamp. And, if that's not enough, there are springs too. Granted they're not big, showy fountains like those of her sisters - in fact some are choked by a brown, flakey (probably algal) material - but some make for a nice swim.

*CAUTION* Some of the springs near the mouth of the river are tidally influenced and periodically reverse flow - changing from an out flowing spring to an inflowing siphon with a strong pull.

An old crab-man once told me "there ain't no ho's in Chassahowitzka." It took me a moment to realize he wasn't trying to crush any dreams I might have of finding a hooker, but was simply letting me know that the locals call the river, "Chassawiska.".

I had been drifting alongside the grizzled old-timer - me in my little canoe, he in his flat , open crab-boat - for nearly an hour. And, for nearly an hour, he had kindly doled out colorful anecdotes and lore in answer to my questions. He told of outlaws, such as Al Capone, who sought refuge in the area's remoteness and of huge tarpon which, even today, draw fishermen from around the world every summer. He even waxed a little poetic when describing the thousands of water birds which sometimes fill the trees during nesting season, and were the driving force behind the creation of the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge.

It was getting near dusk - time to part ways. As he went to crank up his motor, I guess he decided I had shown enough appreciation for this remote little river to be worthy of knowing it's name. As he pulled away, his sparsely-toothed grin grew especially wide as he shouted again, over the roar of his motor, "nope, no ho's here, he he." I don't know if it was the joke or the love of his lot in life, but at that moment he was truly delighted with himself - and so was I.. -- Lars

As you'll learn from the caution signs on the highway coming down, there are bears in these woods. But here, as elsewhere, the Florida black bear is an elusive critter. You have a much better chance of spotting a deer or wild hog rooting along the river bank. On the river bank, there is an otter 'scent post' where a number of otter's ranges overlap. At this spot, passing otters roll and rub themselves in scented oils left on twigs, leaves and rocks by other otters. As they roll, jump and tumble excitedly in the irresistible aromas, they deposit their own musk for other passing otters to enjoy. When there's an otter wallowing in the musky 'scent post' it's usually so immersed in it's rapture that it doesn't pay any attention to us as we watch, only 10 yards away in our boats. But, as with all of our wildlife encounters, our first priority is to not disturb the wildlife or make them alter their behavior in any way by our presence.

As mentioned, the winter brings great birding to this area. A new program to encourage whooping cranes to migrate to Florida began in the fall of 2001. Led by an ultra-light airplane, the small flock of birds were led to the Chassahowitzka marshes where they will spend the winter.

The Chassahowitzka swamp is a lush nursery of exotic wetland plants and ferns. Swamp lilies, spider lilies and tall leather ferns thrive under the dense canopied shade of cabbage palm, cypress, cedar, black gum and ash.

Cabbage palm
Sabal palmetto

This is Florida's State tree, yet it is not so much a tree as an overgrown grass. In fact, they are more closely related to the lilies huddled at their feet than the trees at their side. The fruit (dates) of this 'tree' are an important food for wildlife including bears. Bears will also occasionally tear out the crown of the tree to get to the growth bud. This has long been a favorite dish on the tables of southern woods folk, and still finds its way onto the menus of many local restaurants, listed as 'swamp cabbage' or 'heart of palm'. It's really does taste good, but removing this 'heart' kills the tree, and is illegal. For Florida Indians, the dates were an important part of the diet. They also made cordage from leaf fibers and used the fronds to cover huts and chickees.

Trip Notes and Recent Conditions
(Interesting sightings or notes? Let us know and we'll post here)

The Chassahowitzka is a fairly wide, tidal river, and even during the stronger periods of the coming and going tides, the current is relatively weak. Even the little feeder streams, some of which we explore, are slow.

January 20, 2006 - This was one of those day on the Chas that almost defies words. So, here are a few picture instead. Captions, from left to right: "Jodie spots a raccoon", "wading in to the Lost Spring", "This group of dolphins stayed with our group for nearly 1/2 hour - fantastic!", "Cooling down in the Fountain of Youth - hard to believe it's mid-January!! " (sorry, I had to remove these pictures because they took too long to load - you'll just have to use your imagination and picture lots of dolphins and wide-grinning paddlers).

Cost: $35.00 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and guide)
Using your Own Boat - $25. (many paddlers with their own boats like to join us to learn
more about the history, archaeology and natural history of these rivers).

Skill level: Beginner - Expert. (This is an easy paddle on slow, tannin-stained waters. The open waters of the
lakes can get choppy in wind, but we are never very far from the protected channel of the creek.)

Cross Creek is a charming little thread of water connecting two of north Florida's most beautiful and storied lakes, Orange and Lochloosa. On it's brief, mile-long run, the slow flowing creek meanders lazily under a nearly complete canopy of oak, maple and moss draped cypress. On the downsteam end, Orange Lake is a vast, open expanse, famous for it's "floating islands." In the past, it was a world-famous bass lake, but water levels and water quality issues in recent decades have reduced the fish populations greatly. Levels have come up, but there's still a long way to go.

On the north end of the creek, Lochloosa Lake has faired a little better. The shoreline close to the creek inlet is much more accessible than that of Orange Lake, where wide marshes keep us nearly a quarter of a mile from the tree line. There are plenty of marshes on Lochloosa also, but in many places, you can paddle right up to the sandy, cypress lined shore. The lakes shore is an fantastic unbroken forest of cypress and granddaddy oaks, maples ashes and others, with the only houses seen (after leaving the Creek) being in the far distance.

We usually make this a "sunset paddle" not only to enjoy the many roosting and nesting birds that fill the trees at the end of the day, but also because of the beautiful, wide open vistas that make the perfect backdrop for the area's beautiful sunsets. Marjorie Rawlings knew them well. "The sun at the horizon came into its full glory and the west was copper, then blood-red, blazing into an orgy of salmon and red and brass and a soft bluish yellow the color of ripe guavas. Northeast and south faded instantly to gray, timid at having usurped the flame of the sunset. Then suddenly the west dimmed, as though a bonfire charred and dimmed. There was only a bar of copper. All the sky, to every point of the compass, became a soft blue and the clouds were white powder, so that in the end it was tenderness that triumphed. I went home to sound, cool sleep." (MKR, Cross Creek. p. 289).

Even on those days when the Big Girl (Mama Nature) offers a more dramatic end to the day, we still come away feeling far richer for the experience. On summer afternoon, the day could end more like another afternoon that Rawlings described - "The air is so still that even the restless Spanish moss hangs motionless. Although the sun is hidden the atmosphere is stifling. Then an impalpable breath stirs. The tallest palms in the east grove bend their heads, the moss in the hammock lifts as though a silent hand moved through a gray beard. There is a sibilant sound in the pecan trees, the grayness thickens, and rain marches visibly across palms and orange trees and comes in at the gate. Sometimes it is a gentle shower, sometimes a rushing flood. After it has passed, the air is as fresh and clean as April and the night will be cool for sleeping. The sun strikes through the wetness, there is likely to be a rainbow, and the palms are rosy in the evening light." (MKR, Cross Creek. p. 285)

Regardless of how it goes, clear, cloudy or wet, the only thing that could make ending a day any better, is to go home after the trip, curl up in bed with a Rawling's book (sunsets are best served with the book "Cross Creek") and let her magical descriptions of the places and wildlife you've just experienced lull you to sleep.

In addition to the wildlife mentioned in the above description, there are lots of birds. And there's hardly a more scenic setting in north Florida to enjoy Bald eagles, osprey, several species of duck, egrets, herons and, of course those two amazing fish catchers, cormorants and anhingas. There are also many reptiles, including alligators, snakes and turtles.

Bald Eagle
Haliaeetus leucocephalus

This large bird of prey almost lost it's status as U.S. national emblem because, in Ben Franklin's words, it is a "bird of bad moral character." This poor review was based on the birds habit of stealing fish from other birds - especially osprey. It does, however, catch plenty of its own fish as well. Eagles are long-lived birds which may have contributed to ancient beliefs in their power of rejuvenation. One myth said eagles fly to the sun then return and dive into the water. This is why they are often seen in Christian art as a symbol of rebirth. The name "bald" is derived from the old English "bhel" which meant white.

Prehistoric Indians found this an ideal area to live, and left plenty of evidence to attest to this fact. Near the north shore of Orange Lake, one of the oldest burial mound complexes is found near an interesting village site surrounded by earthworks. By the time Europeans began their exploration of Florida, the main village of the powerful Potano tribe was situated a short distance from the ancient earthworks.

Life changed for the Potanos in 1539, when Spanish explorer Hernando DeSoto led his expedition through this area. The chroniclers of his expedition mentioned Potano but fortunately the soldiers didn't stay long enough to create the kind mischief which highlighted much of their journey.

In the mid 1500's, the Potanos withstood several raids from French and then Spanish soldiers, fighting alongside some of the Potano Indian enemies. Eventually the Potanos were forced to relocate their village to the San Felasco hammock, north west of Gainesville. Several decades later, another band of Indians moved onto the abandoned Orange Lake site. The area was now at the southern fringes of an expanding system of Christian missions being established by Spanish monks. It's believed there was a mission briefly established here at this village, but it didn't last long.

During the late 1800's, several small steam boats conducted business on these waters - mostly carrying lumber, oranges and produce. The most active "port" seems to have been at the small community of Lochloosa on that lakes eastern shore.

But, by far the most colorful chapter in Cross Creeks past began with the arrival, in 1928, of the famous author Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings. For the next 25 years, until her death in 1953 of cerebral hemorrhage, she captured the essence of rural life in this area. Her writings brought Rawlings worldwide acclaim (and a Pulitzer Prize in 1939 for The Yearling) and inspired people around the world to dust off their atlases and search for this tiny hamlet. Today, her enchanting words still cast their magic, inspiring thousands of people every year to visit her home, now a quiet and appropriately "off-the-beaten-path" State Park with scheduled tours. (For park info, call 352-466-3672).

Recent Trip Notes & Conditions

(Interesting sightings or notes? Let us know and we'll post here)

Sept. 17, 2006 - I've been slacking on trip notes in recent months, but if I'd been keeping up, the Cross Creek notes would be loaded with words like "beautiful" (as in sunsets, vistas, egrets, etc.), "lots" (as in fun, relaxation, birds, etc.), "interesting" - (as in found Indian artifacts, plant lore, etc) and "relaxing" (as in relaxing). This years colonial bird rookery of egrets, herons and anhingas, was near the Lochloosa end of Cross Creek. It broke up in the early months of September. At the same time, we started seeing the returning bald eagles, a pair of whom have returned to the large nest we observe from our lunch/stretch stop.

Sept, 20, 2007 - While we've had a fair amount of rain in recent months, it wasn't enough to make significant improvement in paddling conditions. We'll need a few more inches before paddling get good again. in the meantime, take heart in knowing the wading birds are loving it! Egrets, herons and wood storks are wading knee-deep in the rich hunting grounds. The exposed flats at the lakes edge are the happy hunting ground for lots of peeps (sandpipers) of all persuasion. Glossy ibis and black-necked stilts are enjoying the conditions as well.

Crystal River
"Manatee encounter"

(Here's Patsy wishing she could jump in and kiss a manatee)

Cost: $39 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and guide)
Using your Own Boat - $25. (many paddlers with their own boats like to
join us to learn more about the history, archaeology and natural
history of these rivers).

Group size: 1 - 24 people

* We do this trip most weekends (and some week days) from November through March.
Join us for a scheduled tour. (see calendar for trips being planned).
If you see a free date on the calendar, suggest
the trip of your choice and we'll post it!
or,
schedule your own private tour. Call for details (386-454-0611)

On this trip, we explore Kings Bay, the headwaters of Crystal river. This is the winter home of over 300 manatees, making it one of the most important refuges for these amazing, endangered mammals. In addition to the manatees, there's a world of exploring opportunities in this beautiful bay. Over thirty crystal clear, artesian springs are scattered about the bay, while on shore, Indian village sites and mounds lie hidden among the tangle of sub-tropical vegetation. The most notable of these lies a short two miles downstream of the area we paddle. Here, overlooking the river from a low bluff, sits an amazing complex of temple mounds. Today, this site is known as the Crystal River State Archaeological Site, but for nearly 1600 years, Florida natives called it home. According to archaeologists, this is the longest continuous occupation of any site in Florida. Think about it. It's only been 500 years since Columbus and a couple of boatloads of Europeans found this New World. Ironically, the natives abandoned this site just a few generations earlier, probably in the early 1400's. Many visitors round out their day of exploring Crystal River with a drive to this park where a fine interpretive center describes the various cultures that lived here. An easy, shaded trail takes you through the site where you can even climb to the top of the largest temple mound overlooking the river.

King's Bay is home to a fantastic array of animal species - finned, furred and feathered. With it's close proximity to the Gulf of Mexico - seven miles to the straight soaring eagle - the variety of birds is fantastic. Species that prefer the coast, including brown pelicans, gulls and terns, share the air-space with land-lubbers like warblers, orioles, cardinals, grackles, night herons, etc. Green herons, little blue herons and egrets work the shorelines of some of the smaller channels we explore. While on the open water, we might run into a group of white pelicans, working together in their unique feeding strategy in a quiet back marsh. And always ... always, the vultures. Crystal River and vultures (both turkey and black) have a long history together. One of the islands we circumnavigate on our exploration is called Buzzard Island. And, be sure to watch those soaring flocks closely - bald eagles often run with that crowd.

Of course, the real stars of the show are the manatees. Every winter, as the waters in the Gulf of Mexico cool down, over 300 endangered manatees come into King's Bay, seeking out the relatively warm water that gushes from the 32 clear artesian springs that are the lifeblood of Crystal River. This is nearly 10% of the entire population of Florida manatees in existence.

Manatees

Any exploration of wild Florida holds the possibility of wonderful surprises. But few experiences compare to drifting over a huge manatee. These stone-gray mammals average ten feet in length and tip the scales at about 1200 pounds (the largest ones are over 13 feet long and weigh over 3000 lbs). Being gentle herbivores with no common predators, they quietly go about the business of being manatees, giving little thought to passing kayaks(swimmers are a different matter - please don't swim with them). As air breathing mammals, they surface every few minutes for a breath of air, often pausing to gaze curiously into the eyes of their wide-eyed admirer. Occasionally, one will even roll over and rub its belly on the hull of your boat. We often see mothers with young, usually just one, but sometimes twins. They reach sexual maturity anywhere from 4 - 6 years of age and can be observed in the wild throes of manatee love at any time of year, though most breeding takes place in spring. They are known to reach well over 50 years of age.

Paddling among manatees is an experience that every animal lover should have. You can never imagine such large, wild animals could be so gentle and tolerant of humans. Sometimes they'll even roll over for a belly rub. As we paddle between a collection of small islands, making our way from spring to spring, watching for manatees, we're treated to the company of hundreds of water birds, including pelicans, cormorants, herons (frequently night-herons) gulls and such. The only downside to this trip is that civilization is pressing hard against the shoreline around the east side of the bay, especially in the areas most frequented by the manatees. Needless to say, we make our way to the beautiful expansive marshes on bays west side as quick as irresistible manatee encounters allow.

By now, I guess it's obvious manatees are the stars of Crystal River. Each fall, as cool autumn weather sweeps into north Florida, manatees congregate at sites with relatively warm water. The 31 springs in Crystal River and King's Bay, fit the bill perfectly. But there are some other, less reliable stars such as bottle-nosed dolphins, who frequently make an appearance. Other animals we see include bald eagles, osprey herons, egrets, many pelicans and an occasional yellow-crowned night heron. This is also one of the few places where we regularly see Canada Geese in the winter. You'll also see an wide assortment of fish, some which are usually thought of as solely salt water species. Mullet, needle fish, shad, grey snapper and even an occasional tarpon keep the waters alive under our boats.

On the north shore of King's Bay, a large temple mound and village site remain as monuments to the longest, continuously occupied site in Florida. This site, the Crystal River Archaeological Site, is several miles downstream from the area's we explore in our search for manatees, and few people have the energy to make the journey after paddling around King's Bay. A couple of the mounds are visible from the river, but you can't enter the park from the river. A good alternative is to round out your day with a drive to the Crystal River State Archaeological Site after our paddle. Admission is $2 per vehicle and includes admission to a very nice interpretive center.

Recent Trip Notes & Conditions
(Interesting sightings or notes? Please let us know and we'll post here)

January 13, 2004 - All trips so far this month have been great. Today's trip got off to a good start when we met a group of manatees
lolling about outside 'gator hole' spring. Some of these were used to human contact and, after a few minutes of sizing us up, came
close and allowed some of our group to pet them. Over the next couple of hours we saw dozens more manatees. After a welcome
stretch and lunch break on a sunny little isle, we resumed our exploration of the Bay. After sharing a bit of lore about the Bays
beautiful plant life and enjoying some great bird sightings (and even a sizeable alligator sunning on bank) we made our way to the
back bay. Around 2:00, we came upon a pod of feeding dolphins. Some of our group started paddling hard to get near the roiling,
splashing action. No need! Unconcerned about the gentle paddlers in their midst, the dolphins came toward us. Working in groups, the
dolphins chased fish in all directions, often surging very near to our boats. At times, I'd look over at one of our group and they looked
like they had been dropped into a huge washing machine and the dolphins had turned the setting to "heavy duty wash." Occasionally, a
fish would jump out of the water, with a dolphin hot on it's tail. At one point, I looked over to see about a 3 foot tarpon shoot straight
up into the air and then straight back down, tail first. It was spectacular! For nearly half an hour, our group became dispersed over a
few hundred square yards as they followed different groups of dolphins. From my central position, I could hear giggles, squeals,
laughter and an occasional scream of excitement coming from all directions. I finally had to close my eyes and drink it in. To a
nature guide, whose life's calling is to foster a love of wildlife and nature in his clients, the moment was pure magic and the
sounds around me were the finest music imaginable.

Sept. 17, 2005 - The manatees are back!! Actually, it would be more accurate to say "we're back!!" because in recent years there has
been a year-round, resident population of manatees living in King's Bay. But, this was our first visit with them this season. On
yesterday's Weeki Wachee trip we saw some too, so we're off to a great start for the winter.

December 3, 2005 - Our recent trips here to Crystal River and King's Bay have reaffirmed its status as a wildlife watchers paradise. In
addition to manatees, the undisputed stars of the show, our other wildlife encounters have been outstanding (and to be out "standing"
on water is a tough act! Sorry, I couldn't resist :-). A large flock of nearly 100 lesser scaup warily allowed us to come within good
photographing range. We also saw a number of all the usual bay inhabitants - double-crested cormorants, herons (little blue, great blue,
tri-colored), snowy and great egrets and one lone bittern who was sure he was well camouflaged, even though he was completely out in
the open. A large flock of black vultures was joined on the thermals by a bald eagle. A special treat was finding a group of 11 white
pelicans feeding as a coordinated unit in a shallow back cove. In another nearby cove, last week, we watched a pod of dolphins in
a similar group effort. Corralling a group of fish into the shallows, they would suddenly charge into the crowd of trapped fish. In an
instant, the water exploded as dozens of fish jumped and somersaulted out of the water like a kettle of silvery popcorn as the
dolphins charged back and forth, mouths agape, through the chaos. Never ones to miss an easy meal, a few brown pelicans, who
had been loitering nearby and watching intently for their cue, quickly joined the action, diving headfirst into the fray.

March 10, 2006 - In the past two weeks, warm weather has sparked the wanderlust in our gentle friends and they are roaming far and
wide throughout the bay. They haven't left the bay altogether yet, and cool evenings brings them in to their favorite haunts. Along the
runs and lining the island shores, trees are in full spring regalia - full, fresh leaves, blooms and ripening seeds. It's a great time to
enjoy King's Bay, but if you want to see manatees this season, you'd better do it in the next few weeks. As April dawns on the
calendar, paddlin' season on King's Bay will be replaced by motor craft season.

October 4, 2006 - The most recent count found about 30 manatees in King's Bay. Air temps are not cool enough to prompt them to
hang out near spring vents, so finding them is an exercise in patience and awareness.

December 4, 2006 - They're back!! Everywhere you look on King's Bay, their rolling, smooth backs and the occasional spout of exhaled
air testify to the fact that they have arrived in full force and are sure to be here every day for the next few months. It's also obvious,
judging from their huge numbers, that these creatures are far from endangered. What a shame! The Bay would be a better place
without them! Oh yeah, and the manatees are back too ;-) (For those who aren't familiar with the area, I'd better explain - that
last joke was in reference to people who swim with manatees - a practice we strongly discourage.)

All kidding (and snide remarks about manatee swimmers) aside, our trips this winter have been great. In addition to seeing many
manatees, we've been treated to a full menagerie of wildlife sightings - dolphin, herons, egrets, white pelicans (and brown),
bald eagles, otters, raccoons, a hog, tarpon and more. Best of all, we've enjoyed the company of lots of new paddle
friends and good times.

March 06, 2008 - We've had warmer weather than usual in recent weeks so manatees are on the move. They're getting harder to find some days, but, of course your trusted guide knows where to find them ;o) (of course, now that I've exhibited a moment of completely un-Lars-like brashness, I probably won't see another manatee this spring!)

Cost: $45 per person. (includes boat, paddle, vest, shuttling and guide)
Using your Own Boat - $25. (many paddlers with their own boats like to join us to learn
more about the history, archaeology and natural history of these rivers).

Skill level: Moderate (physical ability, endurance and determination are needed)

The open water crossing can be a bit dicey - especially in breezy weather, choppy surf or moderate sized waves.
You'll be in the open for a long time, so dress accordingly.

There's no describing the wonderful sense of mystery and awe that greets every explorer who strolls onto the brilliant sand beaches of Cumberland Island. It hangs thick in the air, overpowering all other senses like the heavy fragrance of an aged orange tree in full bloom. Punctuating the extreme south eastern corner of Georgia, this seventeen mile long barrier island is a nature lovers dream.

Perhaps the most amazing thing about this beautiful island is that it remains in a primarily natural state. This, in spite of the fact that people have had their eye on settling here from the earliest days of exploration and settlement. Starting with the earliest days of colonization, when three different Christian missions were established to convert the natives, Cumberland has always been a much coveted chunk of real estate. Forts were built here, several plantations and even a small town were all located on the island. But none would endure the test of time. Finally, in 1970, it appeared as though civilization was preparing to flood onto the island in earnest, when electric lines were run to the island. But fate smiled on the island once again when Cumberland Island National Seashore was established in 1972.

Natural beauty is the hallmark of Cumberland Island. With a variety of well developed habitats, ranging from dazzling, sugar-sand beaches and complex dune systems on the east shore to a vast expanse of salt marshes bounding the island on the west. In the islands interior, a mature maritime forest of live oak and towering pines is interspersed with small, fresh water ponds.

Waders and other shore birds are usually found here in happy numbers. The three primary habitats found here - shore, dune and maritime forest - are all good places for bird watching. Sea turtles nest here, and one often sees dolphins in the surrounding waters. Less frequently seen are whales. Feral hogs, a problem throughout much of Florida are found here. As are about 300 wild horses - released here when Lucy Coleman Carnegie (yeah, that's the same Coleman you see on your lantern) died in 1916.

When Ponce De Leon first sailed passed this way in 1513, the native Timucua Indians referred to their home island as Missoe, which meant "beautiful". The main village on the island was Tacaturu. As was customary with many Timucua villages, the Chief had the same name.

In 1566, the first settlement of Europeans was established by the Spanish who called the Island San Pedro. Actually, it was more of a fort than a true settlement. In addition to the 80 soldiers garrisoned at the outpost, there were a number of Jesuit missionaries, determined to bring Christianity to the "heathens." They were soon run out by the Indians. Nearly twenty years later, more missionaries (this time from the Franciscan order) arrived and built a mission on the southern end of the island. They named it San Pedro de Mocama . Mocama was a Timucua word meaning "salt-water" and referred to the Timucua alliance of villages ranging from Cumberland Island south to the St. Augustine area.

In 1597, local Guale Indians revolted and the mission came under attack, but was successfully defended by the local villagers. Even though the attack was repulsed, Spanish authorities now realized the missions vulnerability and ordered the mission abandoned.

In 1603, the friars returned and rebuilt San Pedro. Over the years, increased English presence and pressure weakened the Spanish hold on the Island. Finally, in 1683, England took possession of the island.

In 1736, James Oglethorpe, leader of the Georgia colony, visited the island. Local chief Toonahowi, who had previously been taken to England where he met the Duke of Cumberland, renamed the island "Cumberland." Oglethorpe ordered construction of a fort, which they named St. Andrews. The fort was garrisoned with 220 men. Their living quarters were in the adjacent village of Barrimacke. A few years later, they built another fort and named it Ft. Prince William. This one was built at the islands south end. In 1742, St. Andrews was destroyed by Spanish raiders forcing the garrison to concentrate in Ft. Prince William.

In the 1750's, Cumberland Island was considered neutral grounds between English and Spanish colonies. This made it an ideal location for criminals. By the late 1750's, the outlaw population, numbering nearly 300, formed the basis for the islands first permanent settlement.

In 1803, a cotton farmer named Phineas Millera built a tabby mansion which he named Dungeness.